If it’s a lucky vintage, the weather gods will shine brightly to yield up the full compliment of Adrian Rodda’s wines. Something almost always goes wrong, preventing the creation of some of Australia’s finest chardonnays and Bordeaux blends. But for the time being, we are in luck, with four Chardonnays on offer, and the gorgeous 2019 Tete de Cuvee.
The whites tasted together exhibit Rodda’s DNA. Only the Triangle Block, a triangular section of just 183 vines, facing south-east in the iconic Smiths Vineyard, is vinified differently. Handpicked grapes are pressed to 500 litre french oak, a third new, and naturally fermented. Sulphur is added just after fermentation, blocking any potential for malolactic and preserving freshness. Left to mature on its lees for twelve months before being racked into tank for 4 months prior to bottling.
And so what of this DNA? Well, you will find similarities of aromatics and taste, with subtle differences in shape and texture. They are all dazzling, in their pure, pristine citrus and stone fruit; citrus blossom mingling with spring jasmine. Sleek, linear, with a very direct attack and an extra dimension of textural depth, salinity and chalky minerality. And the length! So often, contemporary Australian chardonnay is driven by an imbalance, where there is too great a volume of acidity and not enough fruit. The structures of this release are not only monumental, they are in perfect balance, taut and long, feeling like the waxed fuzz of a horsehair bowstring. Roughly a third new oak, providing a dusting of flavour and very subtle, almost imperceptible shaping of structure.
The 2019 Tete de Cuvee is incredible, superior to the excellent 2018. I am baffled by Australia’s resistance to Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux blends, particularly as the better examples are absolutely terrific and offer remarkable value for money. Versatile too in terms of food matching and session drinking. Rodda’s homage to Bordeaux has always displayed that little bit of extra richness on the mid palate and aromatic lift, and the refinement of tannin is absolutely masterly. Definitely old school, and nothing like anything hailing from Western or South Australia. Victoria nails it again.
Rodda Baxendale Chardonnay 2022
The coolest and highest site, providing the most angular and obviously structured of the chardonnays. Reductive notes of struck match, green apple, white peach , grapefruit, sweetened condensed milk, citrus blossom and white flowers. Cool tasting, spicy and long. A wine of linear shape and great drive. Some chalky minerality on the close adding textural, lip-smacking intensity and clarity. The best release yet.
Rodda Willowlake Chardonnay 2022
Almost invariably the most sought after wine of the release, no doubt due to the fame of this vineyard. A real statement of Yarra cool, waving the flag for contemporary Australian Chardonnay, pioneered in the Yarra Valley. Almost Puligny like in it’s initial aromatic reticence and floral notes. But with a bit of warmth, comes Australia, with fennel, passionfruit and green mango. Don’t let this fool you. This is an absolutely tingling, exhilarating wine, slightly rounder and fleshier and more sinewed than the Baxendale. Some citrus and stone fruits, apple skin texture and a long mineral finish. Superb.
Rodda Smith’s Vineyard Chardonnay 2022
A wine of shape and shadow, flavours coming and going, textures altering and a structure that is almost hidden. Subtle aromatics of mandarin blossom, yellow fruits and Rodda’s signature fruit tingle tang. The richest and most structured of the single vineyard chardonnays. Deep, concentrated and driven by pure yellow fruits, preserved citrus, salt, wood spice and sunflowers. Fleshy, yet coiled, and with time in the glass the shape and flavours constantly changing. Such an accomplished wine and clearly from a great site.
Rodda Triangle Block Chardonnay 2021
From a tiny patch of vines within Smith’s vineyard. More new wood here and longer time in barrel, so it’s essentially classically styled and not a ‘contemporary’ expression as the other chardonnays are. Beautifully pure aromas of spring jasmine, honeycomb, mandarin, yellow and white peach and very fine oak. Very deep, brooding, fleshy, a masterclass in finessed power. The oak provides a hint of structure, but the real power comes from the strength of fruit flavour. Grapefruit, preserved lime, nectarine, apricot, white bread, green apple and Victoria plum. Silky palate, so easy to drink and the flavours trickle and caress like a lingering massage. utterly magnificent and the best for sometime.
Why oh why don’t we drink more Cabernet? Well this is a blend, Cabernet dominant mind, and that beggars the next question; why don’t we drink more blends? Two for one here, one of Australia’s best Bordeaux blends, alongside Wantirna, Yeringberg and Mount Mary. Beautiful aromatics of cassis, blackberry, mulberry, cranberry, lavender tobacco and sandalwood. Fleshy, spicy and tightly structured palate of poise, power and supreme elegance. An utterly complete wine of refreshment, easy drinking, full of flavour, complexity, length of flavour and tannic grip. Some wines taste and feel confident, imperious, effortlessly dominant and this is one such wine. The finest Tete de Cuvee tasted.
