A recent invite to an American wine tasting had me wondering what did I really know, or think of American wines? Well, very little as it happens, but enough to know that there are treasures to be had and the first wine tasted confirmed this – not just not bad, but actually really, really good. Mineral and salty, but not Chablis-esque, with a slender middle palate belying boundless energy. I was reminded of contemporary Yarra Valley Chardonnay, although maybe not one would come close to this.
A month or so later, I wandered out of a second American wine tasting, somewhat flushed and happier than ever. At their best, American Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are unrivalled outside of France, and their inspiration is decidedly Burgundian.
Tasting from one wine to the next at each event, maps were brought out and dissertations of slope orientation, nighttime temperatures, soil profiles, and the relentless parade of facts precipitated a tuning out. This obsessive focus on agricultural details and the existential question of site expression can replace the most important question of whether you enjoyed the wine or not? And are you willing to pay for it? To paraphrase Hemingway, having a good time is knowing when you’ve had your money’s worth.
A singular focus on geographical and manufacturing facts is narrow minded and, in the context of wine, French-centric. The French it is true, played a decisive roll in the American Revolution, yet it was the Americans who created the world’s first democracy and its creation and avowal to a constitution, condensed the ideals and manifestation of the Enlightenment. History is always ironic and it was a monarchical, pre-revolutionary France that so enthusiastically allied the Americans in their noble quest for a republic.
Thomas Jefferson brought his love of French culture to his home Monticello, in particular his love of wine. His efforts to produce wine did not prove a success. Virginia it has to be said is not suited to wine production and America’s vinous ambitions would have to wait until the western half of the United States was settled.
Simple pleasures are rarely simple and the realisation of a fine wine in a glass sipped in comfort and safety is one of our times’ great miracles. When I drink American wine, not often enough alas, I marvel at how history has woven the two countries of France and the United States together.
The bloody compact forged during the Revolution reached its zenith with the American declarations of war in 1917 and in 1941. Sipping the incomparably beautiful ’21 Arnot-Roberts Sonoma Coast Syrah, I cannot help but smile, not only from Epicurean pleasure, but humbled by the distillation of over two centuries of discourse, deliberation, friendship and sacrifice.
Arnot-Roberts Trout Gulch Chardonnay 2021
Distinct with its purity and cut, slender frame, yet perfectly proportioned flesh and muscle. White peach, nectarine, lime, lemon, citrus blossom and gardenia. Composed and thoroughly refined, a statement in poise and a mastery of the multifaceted nuances of Chardonnay. Tight and coiled structure, just beginning the slow unwind. It’s rich and succulent, with tangy mint, subtle oak spice and quite mineral. Very pure, unforced with plenty of easy weight and power. An incomparable Chardonnay of extraordinary value.
Evening Land Seven Springs Chardonnay 2021
Aged in used Austrian barrels, perfectly suited to the opulent, yet chiseled and structured Chardonnay. Immensely complex aromatics with notes of nougat, lemon zest, lime, kaffir lime, frangipanni, sage and fleshy orchard fruits. Very tight and coiled, some textural grip, tarragon, clove and saltbush that coats and grips the palate. Long finish, seemingly dreamy in its length, reminding me of a slow dipping sun.
Arnot-Roberts Sonoma Coast Syrah 2021
Tasting sixty-odd American wines recently, the ’21 Arnot-Roberts Sonoma Coast Syrah was hands down my favourite. Sensual aromatics of sweet dark and red fruits, lavender, whole bunch spice and kirsch. 100% whole bunch is hard to imagine, as they in no way dominate or overpower the fruit. Juicy, sweet and tangy fruit – texturally the silk metamorphosing into chalk. Pure, bright and intense, a statement in unforced power, supreme elegance and terrific density.
Evening Land Seven Springs Pinot Noir 2021
Heady, perfumed and luxurious. Aromatics of kirsch, lavender, blood plum, raspberry, strawberry and cranberry. Succulent and pure and, despite all the strength of flavours, remarkably elegant. Hedge fruits, cinnamon, fresh herbs, sweet red fruits, mushroom compost and camphor. The combination of the sweet and the savoury is delightful. Gentle, composed, ripe and long tannins complete the slender, lithe frame.
Hirsch Bohan Dillon Pinot Noir 2020
Hirsch’s wines are personified by delicacy and weightless concentration. Pure, cool and fresh with red fruits, hedge fruits, subtle spice and autumn notes of fallen leaves and fresh earth. Finessing tea leaf tannins and intense acidity weave almost unseen, asserting themselves towards the close. Lingering and contemplative wine.
