It’s been too long, about four years, since I had the opportunity to taste the wines of Bindi, so when invited to a trade tasting that included this wonderful producer I jumped at the chance. From the very first sniff, Bindi once again confirmed its status as a first amongst equals, and that Macedon and surrounds is home to a small collection of Australia’s finest Pinot Noir and Chardonnay producers. And we have another reason to thank owner/winemaker Michael Dhillon; that it was he who ‘found’ the site for Robert Walters’ Place of Changing Winds, next door as it happens, another of Australia’s greatest Pinot Noir producers.
The Bindi farm is large 170ha, but only 7ha is planted to vines; 2ha Chardonnay and 5ha Pinot Noir, yielding a minuscule 2-3 thousand cases a year. Everything in the vineyard is done by hand and with organic practices in mind. Irrigation has been installed and used only when absolutely necessary. Interestingly, it’s the high density plantings (11300 per hectare) that seem to suffer the least, despite the evident competition. Could it be that the plants’ canopy shade one another and the soil from water evaporation? The soils are well drained, with quarts over siltstone, sandstone and clay. Reflected in nature’s design, the wines are fresh, bright and intensely aromatic, with a voluptuous shape and penetrating sensuality. Clay, is a godsend here.
The wines are made ala Burgundy, simply. Natural ferments, the use of solids in Chardonnay, gentle extraction in reds and long ageing in barrel. Both colours are unfined and unfiltered. Simple winemaking for the incredible qualities of site and the farms unbelievable attention to detail. With a name such as Bindi and the wines on a plateau matched by few, it is natural to think that there is plenty more land on that farm of theirs, but they don’t have any intention of increasing their vineyards anytime soon.
There are two ranges of wines, those Pinot Noir and Chardonnay only grown off the Bindi farm, and other wines such as the Dhillon Grenache and Pyrette Syrah. I cannot stress enough the excellence of the wines grown from non-Bindi fruit. They are absolutely terrific, excellent value for money fine wines that should not be missed. Michael Dhillon is a master craftsmen and all wines are subject to the same philosophy of beautiful fruit grown from great sites, made simply.
The whites are dazzling in their intensity and attack and are shaped like an inverted pyramid. The entry onto the palate is like threading a needle, which then fans out across the palate. It is very difficult to describe the sheer depth, width and breadth of palate, yet with a structure so firm, fine and linear. The pinot noirs are sensual and round in shape. Pretty and floral, they combine wonderful fruit purity, savoury tannins, fresh compost, sweet and savoury spice, exotic fruits and herbs. I know not of any Pinot Noir in Australia that is so wildly and animally refined. Their ageing potential will be measured in decades, and I dare you to wait that long.
Bindi Kostas Rind Chardonnay 2022
Citrus, just think citrus. Lime that’s fresh juice, zest and preserved, Tangelo, Ruby Grapefruit, Mandarin blossom, gentle spice and Gardenia. Concentrated and deep, such a threading the needle attack, so precise and linear, then pincering the palate with wave after wave of flavour. Intense, dazzling and vital, with a finish that goes on and on. Waters Wine Co
The Dixon is considered the early drinking Pinot Noir in the range. Everything you could possibly hope for in Pinot Noir, as if what you could imagine is on show here. Gamey notes of Serrano, the fruit is red and very sweet, like freshly picked English strawberries and raspberries, and this is cut through with lashings of amaro, chocolate orange, savoury and sweet spice. Effortless flow, slightly round, yet with a pithy tannic cut; a reminder of serious intent. There is certainly immense pleasure if you were to open a bottle today, but if you can hold it for another 5 years or so, the pleasure dial would be twisted to the extreme.
Deep aromas of sweet red fruits, cassis, kirsch, a lick of chocolate, Middle Eastern spice, lavender and violets. Sumptuous and full bodied, sensual, fleshy and a writhing serpentine shape. Fresh English strawberries and raspberries, tangy rhubarb, fresh compost, poached spiced plum and a wave of dark black fruits kicking through on the back palate. Seamless, balanced and resolved. Texturally complex, all silk and trickling flow and then a final squeeze of minerals and velvet. One of the greatest red wines of Australia and an incomparable pinot noir in any context. Waters Wine Co
A great vintage for the Darshan, 2019, and you can taste why this has been held in reserve. Rich, tight and coiled, 4 years of cellaring still hasn’t loosened the corset of tannins. Very complex fruit profile of red, black and hedge fruits, sweet, yet super fresh, vibrant and tangy. It’s quite mineral and linear, the tannins more direct and finer than the Block 8. Absolutely amazing wine. An exercise of restraint and composed power. Waters Wine Co
Sourced from the Harcourt vineyard, ala Place of Changing Winds Harcourt Shiraz 2021, made quite differently. The aromatics are totally Heathcote; sweet earth, campfire, iodine, Serrano, sweet dark fruits and violets. Medium to full bodied, it’s round and sensual, cut through with rich, gourmand tannins. Such a contrast with the POCW, proving if t were needed, the importance of method. Gorgeous. Waters Wine Co
