It’s not everyday you taste through a collection of wonderful appellation defining wines, to then be told “there’s still more” and to taste the delicious and completely unexpected. Chateau du Cedre is not only the benchmark estate of Cahors, famous for its malbec, but it is pushing the boundaries of what is possible in this remote corner of south-west France. The first vines were planted in 1958 with a soil of limestone, clay and sand, and a topsoil of pebbles.
The vineyard is organic and the wines see absolutely no additions with sulphuring at bottling only. Ageing for almost all the wines, regardless of colour or style, is in mainly large format oak and, as such, the volume richness and texture of fruit is intense, pure, succulent and abundantly fresh. Cedre’s reputation for traditional and contemporary Cahors is long and undisputed and the quality to value ratio is unequalled amongst the classic wines of France.
However, two of my favourite wines from a recent tasting are in no way traditional to Cahors and are labeled as either Vin de France or IGP Cotes du Lot.These are Cedre’s chardonnay and dry white Bordeaux blend called Les Grezes, named after the cones of limestone scree found in the vineyards. A chardonnay from south-west France may not sound exciting, but it was so bloody delicious and cheap, that I’m still raving about it.
Dry white Bordeaux blends may not be the flavour of the month either, but the classical wines from Bordeaux are phenomenally expensive so I almost never get the opportunity to taste. It is a terrific style of wine, and its counterparts here in Australia are almost invariably never any good, except for the wonderful Domaine A Lady A. So if you want to try the style, and at a supremely affordable price, the Les Greves is about as good as it gets.
Cedre Heritage Chardonnay 2023
From estate vineyards, grown on limestone, the Chardonnay was handpicked, whole bunch pressed and allowed to ferment naturally. Aged on fine lees, there is absolutely no oak, yet the lees do impart a creaminess and there are reductive notes of flint and struck match. Pristine wine, and beautifully pitched at just 12% alcohol. Lime, grapefruit, cashew, pawpaw, spice and pink lady apples. Tight and focused with excellent intensity and drive, the mid palate filled with cream, pastry and citrus pith. Mineral and with a lovely line of bright acidity.
I love dry white Bordeaux, but alas the sort that I like, I can’t afford. To honest, I don’t care where it comes from and Chateau du Cedre are displaying the versatility of their terrior with these wine styles and varietals. Very classic aromatics of white flowers, Anzac biscuit, mirabelle plum, white an yellow peach, lime and persimmon. Slightly textured and fleshy, it is however tightly wound, with nuances of ginger and cream, tensioned by mouth watering acidity. Extremely versatile and although good to go now, should age very well indeed.
Chateau du Cedre Heritage 2020
Such gorgeous aromatics of blackcurrant, lavender, violets, plum and cherry liqueur. Rich, but in no way heavy, fleshy and lithe. There is always such tension and balance with the Cedre wines, and all of this achieved without any additions save a little Sulphur at bottling. Very long close, fresh and lively, the pumice like tannins purring, interwoven by pure fruit and precise acidity. This will have a very long drinking window, but is certainly approachable young.
Chateau du Cedre Heritage 2022
Made from 90% Malbec with 5% Merlot and 5%Tannat. The vines are rooted in clay and limestone soils, with an average age of 30 years old. As always, absolutely no additions except some sulphur at bottling. Aged for 18 months in large format oak and 500L barrels, none new. Very complex wine, the aromatics are super intense with potpourri, blackcurrant, squid ink, smoke and damp earth. A lively core of fruit, deep, and a luscious element of black forest gateau. Rich, dripping tannins, a wonderful, voluptuous wine of curve and cut. Balance, balance, balance. The richness is countered by energy, movement and muscle. Drinkable now, but with decades of ageing potential.
