There was a time when the wines of Alsace were all chisel and sinew, so plain under the clothes. Described as elegant, restrained, aristocratic and mineral, they often displayed shrill structures, hard textures and empty fruit profiles. They were Alsace’s answer and point of difference to the new world. Wines of countries like Australia – generous and rich, with abundant ripe acidity and loads of fruit, and at a fraction of the price. Truthfully though, there is nothing from Australia, or anywhere else in the new world to match the explosive power, deep fruit, chewy texture, structures and voluptuous curves of Domaine Barmes-Buecher.
Family history
You cannot underestimate the advantages of history. Founded in 1985 when Genevieve Barmes married Francois Buecher, choosing to combine the family domaines, bringing together families with over 400 years of grape growing and wine production experience. Eight varieties are grown; Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Gerwurtztraminer, Sylvaner, Muscat Ottonel, Pinot Gris, Pinot Auxerrois and Pinot Noir. Certified biodynamic in 2001, the estate comprises 15 hectares of mouthwatering vineyards from a variety of lieux-dits and three Grand Crus.
Vineyard Expression
Vineyard expression is a key ambition of the domaine, making for fascinating comparisons. Great vineyards worked assiduously are given full expression through the vinification process. Hand picked, very ripe grapes are gently pressed for up to 15 hours, before the juice is run off by gravity for fermentation. Long, unaided natural ferments, lasting for up to 2 years, before ageing on lees in old large format oak . Absolutely no additions except for a small amount of sulphur at bottling. It takes guts to produce wines as naturally as this.
And the results are some of the most magisterial and seductive aromatic whites in the world. Beautifully conditioned fruit from grand vineyards is always the key, but the hands-off approach in the cellar and use of long ageing in large format oak are key to the Domaine Barmes-Buecher style.
Ageing in large oak
I am a huge believer in ageing aromatic wines with high acidity in large format oak. The wines maintain their freshness, deepening their fruit, bullnose the hard edges, gathering flavours, texture and flesh. The wines are noticeably dark in colour, from long ageing in cask and carefully managed oxidative handling. And if you think steel will aid in freshness, or you don’t believe me, then try anything from Hofgut Falkenstein or Daniel Vollenveider. Wines fermented and aged in large oak casks (fuder), so tense and coiled with illuminated fruit and structure – it’s as if you are crushing freshly picked grapes in your mouth.
It is hard to imagine the energy, richness, depths, sensuous textures and explosive power of the wines of Domaine Barmes-Buecher, without trying them. Indeed, they carry the length and luxury of Montrachet. Great wine doesn’t come from any patch of dirt. No. Great wine hails from sun baked vineyards, imagined centuries ago and worked, loved and sweated over by the faithful.
Domaine Barmes Buecher Cremant d’Alsace Brut Nature 2019
Brut Nature signifies zero dosage, made from Pinot Gris, Pinot Auxxerois, Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc. In other words, a definitive Alsace sparkling of a style and flavour unique to the region. Intense aromatics, creamy, earthy, smoking and fruit of preserved lemon, pear, cumquat and white flowers. Voluminous, with gentle fizzle, delicate spice, honey, fleshy fruits and a long, long mineral finish. Wonderful stuff, satisfying and a great match with many foods.
Domaine Barmes-Buecher 7 Grains 2020
A blend of Riesling, Gewurtztraminer, Pinot Gris, Pinot Auxerrois, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir and Muscat Ottonel. Essence of Alsace, a blend of varietals that expresses the region and the producer. Multifaceted, perfumed, floral, honeysuckle, ginger, pear, red apple, pomelo. cherry, smokey, earthy, mushroom compost, flint and rosewater. And that’s just the aromatics… Super vibrant palate with great width, I don’t want to say broad as it doesn’t have the muscle of the single varietals. Peach skin texture, subtle though, with orange blossom, preserved lime, cumquat, salt, brine, savoury spice and exotic fruit. Stunning, emblematic wine. Classic, yet entirely unique.
Domaine Barmes-Buecher Pinot Blanc Rosenberg Lieu Dits 2019
If you wanted to try the definitive style of Domaine Barmes-Buecher, the Rosenberg Pinot Blanc is the wine. So often a bland and limp varietal, here we have a wine of immense breadth, energy, richness and power. The fruit is super ripe, yellow and red. Pawpaw, cherry, burnt butter, blood orange, apricot and green mango. Full bodied and broad, concentrated, explosive, curvy and luxurious, flecked with spice. Such drive and length, a rumbling V8 purring into the vast horizon. Wow!
Domaine Barmes-Buecher Clos Sand Lieu Dit Riesling 2019
Essentially a monopole of the estate, with new high density plantings. A high, cool vineyard of granite, very steep and surrounded by woodland. The sparse and rocky soils a pivot point towards finesse, and although the wines are rich, full bodied and shapely, they are slightly more discreet, elegant, linear and fine. Brioche notes, cherry, blackcurrant, mint, candied lemon, lemon oil, smoke and grapefruit. Deep, concentrated, spicy, round shape, yet focused and bracing. Very fine and the textural grip is spice driven and finer than in the other wines. I have a feeling that as the vines mature, we may see the estates greatest wines coming from this site.
Domaine Barmes-Buecher Steingrubler Grand Cru Riesling 2019
Unbelievable. Pouring the wine, I could smell this from across the room, a bazaar of exotic scents. Dark in colour, as all the wines of Domaine Barmes-Buecher are, with cherry, apricot, earth, smoke, red apple, custard, orange blossom, mint and lime marmalade. Full bodied, massive, yet massive control of power, volcanically deep, concentrated and structured. Flavour runs to all corners of the mouth, filling every gap, total envelopment, Lovely shape, curved with woolly texture and chiseled with rippling acidity. Very special wine. Unbelievable.
Domaine Barmes-Buecher Steingrubler Grand Cru Gerwurtztraminer 2019
Gerwurtztraminer was never my favourite varietal, but this year we tasted many excellent ones including from Australia. This is on another level of grandeur entirely. The Grand Cru itself has a mixture of soils, from granite to limestone and clay. You could produce wines to reflect these different soil types, but the sum of its parts is a remarkable, complete wine. Rich and full bodied (of course!), with honey, potpourri, Middle Eastern spices, lychee, pawpaw and green mango. Massive and fleshy, the spice adding texture and cut. Symphonic and grand, texture, but not textural and a long soaring finish. A masterpiece.
