This is not Burgundy. There, I said it. Is our love of Burgundy a love of Pinot Noir, or are we that obsessed with Burgundy we can’t see past it?
Pinot Noir is known as Spatburgunder in Germany and, like everywhere else, style and taste is as much to do with the virtuosity of the producer as the fluky luck of their vineyards. Benchmarks inevitably lead to comparisons, but all great producers define themselves through their own vinous interpretation, presenting a unique offering to the world irrespective of vineyard or region. they go beyond their roots. And there is nothing quite like Enderle and Moll.
Spatburgunder has been cultivated in Germany since at least the 4th century and they are now the worlds third largest producer of Pinot Noir, so there’s plenty of history, tradition and knowledge of the varietal. Enderle and Moll are relative newcomers, founded in 2007 by Florian Moll and Manfred Enderle. They are a tiny estate, with 5 hectares of some of the oldest vineyards in Baden, right on the edge of the Black Forest.
Biodynamically farmed, their first vintages were famously fermented and aged in old Dujac barrels (they have various sources now), with everything from the vineyard to cellar done by hand. This was a heady time for wine in Germany and most Spatburgunders, including those made by the most famous estates, were following their French counterparts with ever increasing ripeness, wood and extract. Enderle and Moll’s style is nothing of the sort.
Two of the most thrilling producers tasted in 2022 are producers of Spatburgunder – Enderle and Moll and Pfalz’s Weingut Rings. The shape, texture and emphasis of these wines was a new experience and they are unique expressions, not found anywhere else in the world.
Light coloured, with a little brick red on the rim, reminiscent of Nebbiolo and light bodied too. Intense, bracing, compact and coiled. Their shape and makeup is unusual, with wide planes of flavour and texture, evenly layered. The fruit profile is mostly red, tangy, with flowers, spices, zesty, earthy and autumnal notes. Acidity is noticeable, indeed mouthwatering, and the tannins lacy yet with a dexterous strength, holding the palate for minutes. Immensely powerful as a recent tasting of older vintages attested to, their coiled repose taking years to unwind. I know of no other wines, anywhere else in the world, that imbue lightness with such a ferocity of refinement, vigour, energy and drama.
Enderle and Moll Pinot Noir 2020
Enderle and Moll’s ‘entry level’ Pinot Noir comes from 30 year old vines planted on sandstone and limestone, Baden’s two dominant soils. In many ways this is the signature wine of the estate, as its shape and style are that which define Enderle and Moll. Pristine and pure notes of red and dark cherries, rhubarb, plum, violets and blood orange. Compact, but less tightly wound than the rest of the range. A compote of tangy red fruits, that orange zest-zing, minerals and lacy tannins slipping through the mouth. Very fresh, vibrant and terrifically energetic.
Enderle and Moll Liaison Pinot Noir 2016 Museum Release
From 50 year old vines, planted in both limestone and sandstone. One of my favourite wines from anywhere, and although I have nothing against single vineyard wines, Liaisons certainly demonstrates the benefits of blending grapes from different soil types. Pristine and pure aromatics, one gets the impression that each grape has been looked over with the most particular care. Cherry cola, middle eastern seven spices, graphite, blackberry, cassis and blueberry. Piquant, the brightness is immense, the flavour squeezed as if through the eye of a needle with the energy and shape of a venomous snake. Autumnal tannins, citrus peel, grapefruit and mulled spices wrapping the darker fruits in a sensual embrace. Awe inspiring. Waters Wine Co
