I first came across the wines of Haddow and Dineen at the Israeli restaurant Ezra in Sydney. The food was superb and suited the wines perfectly. But what was immediately apparent, and these moments don’t happen that often, was that I had tasted Australia’s best Pinot Gris. Several vintages were on offer, from the great to the ordinary, all were tasting beautifully, though the 2019 was the greatest Pinot Gris that I have ever tasted from Australia. Period.
A collaboration between cheesemaker Nick Haddow and winemaker Jeremy Dineen, they also happen to make remarkable beer and cheese of course, which is absolutely next level. But for our purposes, lets stick to the wine. They’ve started with a tiny single vineyard in Yorktown, where they grow their Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris. They also manage a second vineyard, the source of Riesling and a little Pinot Noir. To complicate matters, there’s a shiraz, which I have not tasted. But watch this space, as I think Tasmanian Shiraz/Syrah is the next big thing in the Australian red wine landscape.
The Riesling is simply one of the island’s best. Serpentine in shape, dazzling in flavour, cutting in freshness and pillowed by a palate richness that I have not yet tasted in an Australian Riesling. The early years of Pinot Noir were good if unremarkable, a bit blocky and square for my liking with assertive drying tannins. The 2021 vintage is wonderful however, with brighter fruit and slicker tannins. And then of course the pinot gris, not one of my more favoured varietals – until I tasted Haddow and Dineen. A wine of opulence, luxury and curves. Such shape, movement and flesh with the lithe energy of a newly signed footballer.
Haddow and Dineen Grain of Truth Pinot Gris 2022
Hand-picked, 100% whole bunch pressed, wild yeast, barrel fermented, unfined and unfiltered. Small crops of intensely flavoured fruit, indigenous yeast and barrel fermentation impart genuine richness and texture to this multifaceted and textural Pinot Gris. Aromas of ripe peach, subtle nuts and wild honey give hints of the lusciousness and complexity of the palate. Powerful and balanced with lingering flavours. Gone straight through the eye of a needle at night. Winemaker’s Notes
Haddow and Dineen Sensucht Riesling 2022
Hand-picked, wild yeast, unfined and unfiltered. Sourced from a tiny vineyard in the Coal River Valley managed by Nick and Jeremy. An absolutely sumptuous aromatics pf lemon, lime, nettles, passionfruit, honeycomb and blackcurrant. Incredibly complex, rich, writhing and fleshy. White and yellow peach, lemon and lime, apricot, grapefruit and blood orange. Round in shape, zingy, tangy and with a salty saline twist. There is the faintest of sweetness, barely perceptible, just buffing those edges. Gorgeous and decadent and long. One of the island’s best. Waters Wine Co
Haddow and Dineen Private Universe Pinot Noir 2021
Whiffs of whole bunches – Asian spices, licorice, clove and soy. Black and hedge fruits, lavender, violets, redcurrant and oregano. Rich, full bodied, plush and silky. Beautiful mouthfeel, the whole bunches have greased the tannins of early years, with length and flow. Sleek and lacy with a savoury and meaty element, finishing nervy and long. Layered, detailed and beautifully balanced wine of poise and refinement. The best vintage yet. Waters Wine Co
