Grenache has got to be one of the most versatile of grapes. One of the first genuinely aged wines I ever had was a 60s vintage Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape in about 2002. I wasn’t entirely impressed. Impeccably cellared, but alas dried out and tertiary. Even the old timers who knew a thing or two weren’t too happy, grumbling that 40 years or so was nothing for Vieux Telegraphe. I’ve had some older examples since and the ageing potential of Chateauneuf-du-Pape, and Grenache in general, is grossly overstated. So why wait?
Southern Rhone isn’t all ferrous, fiery, stoney power. Chateuaneuf-du-Pape is low lying, and famously pebbly, but further north, and into the hills are vineyards of cool breezy elevation. Grenache is entirely different up here, away form the hotbeds further south. Domaine Gramenon’s Il Fait Soif is a blend of 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah, adding flesh, richness and a deeper core of fruit.
Fermented with whole clusters, native yeasts and aged in concrete. Absolutely no oak, and the concrete aids freshness and the pumice-like suede tannins. If you are to maintain freshness and soft tannins, concrete is perfect. Like oak, it’s porous, but imparts no flavour, and if aged for short periods like the Il Fait Soif, provides shape, while the essential tannic rails remain. It’s also more porous than oak, shortening the period of ageing, hence, great natural freshness and vivid colour. Winemaking like this is sensual, naked. For the Il Fait Soif to be irresistible, the raw materials need to be perfect.
Everything about this wine is sweet, fresh and juicy. Aromatics of raspberry, strawberry, rhubarb, clove, aniseed, potpourri and blackcurrant. Without being heavy the palate is rich. Stunning, utterly absorbing, it’s hard to taste, because I want to put down my pen, stop, thinking, and start drinking. The compote of sweet red, black and blue fruits is balanced by a sort of Chinotto, walnut, blood orange character. Great width and focus, with lovely whole bunch integration. Ripe sleek tannins wrap and bow this mouthwatering beauty.
