It is every Hunter Valley wine lover’s labour and curse to preach of its glories and delights. Whenever I happen to write of the Hunter Valley, I find it impossible not to mention the indifference of most Australian wine drinkers. Ah well, let’s keep on keeping on. Aaron Mercer has been a fixture in the Hunter Valley for twenty years, making wines with Tyrrell’s, Tamburlaine, Brokenwood and a great many small producers as a contract winemaker. He’s also in partnership with wine wholesaler Andrew Jamieson and Ned Goodwin MW with their label, Maker Master Merchant – one of the best value range of wines in Australia.
The Mercer fruit is sourced from the Central Ranges, Orange, Tumbarumba, Hilltops and most importantly the Hunter Valley. His entry level varietal range is deliciously fresh, vibrant, tangy and fruit driven, not to mention its status as a bargain. The Limited Release range is small batch, from some of the very best vineyards in NSW. These are regionally defining wines; rich, sumptuous and sensual.
Mercer Limited Release Semillon 2022
Very expressive with lime, butter, nettles, lemons, gardenia and grapefruit. This is very, very easy to drink. Plush and full, with incredible mid-palate flesh and lanolin texture. Pulp, round in shape, without ever losing focus or line. When tasting, very similar to Tyrrells’ Johnno’s Basket Pressed Semillon, and I understand the winemaking is very similar. Lovely to see and taste this extra weight and depth in a Hunter Valley Semillon. A new favourite for me. Waters Wine Co
Mercer Limited Release Chardonnay 2022
From one of the country’s great Chardonnay vineyards, much of the fruit going towards Penfolds Yattarna. High toned aromatics of lemon and lime, zest, citrus marmalade, star jasmine, wood spice and cream. Shaped like an inverted pyramid. The attack is razor sharp, on point and then it fans out with sumptuous flesh, texture and extract. Bracing acidity, a defining feature of Tumbarumba is celebrated here, yet there is the weight and heft to carry this through. Very impressive wine, and different from anywhere else in Australia, save perhaps similarities with Macedon. Tumbarumba has a big future in Australian wine. Waters Wine Co
Mercer Limited Release Shiraz 2021
A very good vintage for the Hunter Valley. Wonderfully bright aromas of blackcurrant pastille, sweet cranberry, redcurrant, violets and briary notes. Ruch and full bodied, filling every corner of the palate. Such polish and control. There’s a sense of effortless and silky power. Terrific purity and flow, the bright fruit flavours so fresh. Tannins and acidity are so perfectly integrated, their framing effect is one of buoyance and shape, rather than texture or cut. It feels very classic, yet there is a ‘modern’ quality that is simply wonderful. Terrific, Australian exuberance and sunshine. Waters Wine Co
