Ossa was founded in 2017 by Rod and Cecile Roberts, eponymously named after Tasmania’s highest peak – Mount Ossa. Situated on the East Coast, joining the rush for land which many observers believe harbours Australia’s greatest cool climate potential. Planting 20 hectares at their property Bellbrook, these vines are still too young for high quality wine production.
Rod, who co-owns Tasmanian Vintners, has access to the State’s finest fruit (and some of the most talented winemakers) and this, for the moment at least, is the source of Ossa’s fruit. Proof is only in the glass however and tasting through their wines from the great 2021 vintage, was a bit of a lightbulb moment. Not only were the wines magnificent; every wine on offer confirmed what Tasmania is capable of.
Firstly, Tasmanian sparkling is delicious and different, with its pithy, zesty textures and bright citrus flavours. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are magnificent, but particularly Pinot. For me, at their best, Tasmanian Pinot Noirs have a shape and textural sensuality somewhere between Burgundy and German Spatburgunder. Unique.
Thirdly, Syrah has incredible potential here. The 2021 Ossa is one of the finest we have ever tasted from Australia. Lastly, that Tasmania would do well to explore more the potential of aromatic varietals other than Riesling. Ossa’s Gruner Veltliner is incredible. Great producers are always defining in one way or another, so what a great first look!
Ossa Methode Traditionnelle 2017
A terrific vintage for Tasmania, intense flavours, rich aromatics and terrific acidity. The Ossa 2017 is classic Tasmanian sparkling; flavoursome, with a wide plane of flavour, pithy textural notes and mouthwatering freshness. Lemons, fresh, preserved, zest and salted, mandarin, orange blossom, jasmine, grapefruit, thyme and pastry notes. Tangy and pithy, the preserved citrus element comes through strongly on the palate, as does the salt. Very tense, as all the Ossa wines will turn out to be, but the elements feel effortlessly balanced. There is an ease of drinking here – refreshing, delightful mid weight freshness and interesting too. For all its flavour and power, the Ossa is gentle; its grip gently asserts and not with what is often the overwhelming intensity of Champagne. Very fine and gourmand.
According to Ossa, their Gruner Veltliner makes up a very small proportion of their Belbrook vineyard, but after tasting this I wish it were more. Essence of Gruner with green mango, lychee, pawpaw, lavender honey, spring jasmine and nectarine. Rich and full bodied, unctious, slightly textural with yellow fruits, savoury spice Vietnamese mint and cream. So much textural presence, without being tannic or pithy, rather reminding me of wool and lanolin. Intense flavour, round shape and plenty of acidity chiseling the perfectly ripe fruit. A real game changer of a wine, not showing the potential of Gruner Veltliner in Tasmania as much as affirming it.
Meursault meets Chassagne Montrachet in this rich, fleshy, tense and tightly wound Chardonnay. Absolutely terrific intensity, the fruit tastes and feels as if it’s just been picked. Yellow peach, grilled nuts, salted lime, fresh lime, grapefruit, wood and spring jasmine. Great width across the palate, very wide, with layers of fruit, texture and sizzling acidity packed tightly. Very long flavours, holding for minutes. Loads of dry extract and quite savoury when all’s said and done. A wonderful Chardonnay with a couple of decades to cruise through.
Many Tasmanian producers have made their best wines in 2021 and Ossa’s is perhaps the finest we’ve tasted from this great vintage. Extremely complex, pretty, floral and running the gamut of pinot noir’s extraordinary range. Sweet raspberry, cherry, cassis, poached plum, blueberry, blackberry, rhubarb, mixed spice and fennel. The palate is plush, tight and spicy, indeed tightly coiled. Very refined tannins, running the whole length of the wine, a real spine of plush velvet. The flavours and textures are so refined yet balanced, no element overwhelming the other. Light and shade, dark and light, a Pinot Noir of great poise and drama, unique in the Australian paradigm and sets a new benchmark for Tasmania.
Only 50 dozen made. There are very few wines tasted that set the heart racing, very few, but Ossa’s 2021 Syrah is one of those. Absolutely pristine fruit, the aromatics lifted, charming and deep. Blueberry, raspberry, strawberry, cassis, rhubarb, violets, black tea, minerals and savoury spice. Ossa’s wide plane is here, indeed the signature shape of the estate and it’s so tightly coiled and compact. Very pure, very precise, the acidity gentle and stunning gourmand tannins. This will need years to fully unfurl.
