Quinta do Noval’s style, and Portuguese Tawnys in general, are very different to Australian equivalents. Firstly, the alcohol levels are higher and you can taste the spirit and feel the heat. Secondly, the increase in spirit also changes the shape. Portuguese Tawnys are much rounder in shape and voluptuous, but with greater acidity, so the palates carry extra spice and intensity, whilst still remaining firm. Australian Tawnys appear sweeter, carrying less weight and the shape is more layered than round. It’s important to note these differences as lovers of Australian Tawny may not realise how different the Portuguese wine can be. Neither better, just different.
Colheita is a single vintage Tawny Port, aged for a minimum of seven years in cask. Time in cask can vary, so to pin point a house’s style can be very difficult. Once the wine is in bottle, (this must be specified, and is usually found on the back label), the wine will continue to live and age for many years. In other words, you can certainly drink them upon release, but they will hold and evolve for decades in your cellar.
Flavour profiles are usually quite similar, so if you like the flavours of one, you will probably like the flavours of them all. The biggest differences from one bottling to the next reside in their shape, vibrancy, structure and carry. The best bottles are more complex, intense and powerful, displaying a combination of lusciousness and freshness. Typically, flavours of nuts, preserved fruit, citrus peel, bitter chocolate, dried flowers and exotic spices, becoming milder, silkier and sweeter with age.
Quinta do Noval Colheita Tawny Port 1995
Intense. Explosive aromatics, explosive palate. Floral and very spicy, with Brazil nut, fig, citrus zest, baking spices, fruitcake and licorice. Super vibrant and lifted, mouth coating and very long. Immensely powerful with a very long life ahead.
Quinta do Noval Colheita Tawny Port 1997
A terrific lesson tasting the two Colheita’s together as I expected the 1997, being the younger of the two, to appear more youthful. The 1997 is silky, elegant and resolved, drinking beautifully. It will do well to remember that all vintages are different and expressive, even with Tawny Ports. Potpourri, sunflowers, black fruits, salted caramel, clove and mace. The spice component is gentler, signalling a gentler wine overall, less acid and tasting sweeter than the 1995. Ready, but will hold.
Quinta do Noval 10YO Tawny Port
Angular in shape, quite different from the two Colheitas. Super vibrant and intense, the youth shining through! Sweet red fruits, baking spices and orange zest. Long and harmonious, the spirit in the background, but becoming more apparent along the palate. I love the powdery tannins that squeeze through on the finish. Texturally complex, but also enabling a great range of dessert options.
Quinta Do Noval LBV Unfiltered 2016
One of the best LBV’s tasted in a long time. I often find them losing a little bit of freshness and bitter notes too apparent. Not a bit of it here, however! Oozing aromatics of blackcurrant, blackberry, mulberry, black cherry, prunes, dates, violets and mint. Luscious and full bodied, some clove and cinnamon, the spice is gentle, the sweetness lifted by vibrant acidity. Just perfect with that balance between sweetness and acidity and the spirit hovering in the background. A very long life ahead.
Quinta do Passadouro Vintage Port 2017
Quinta do Noval bought Quinta do Passadouro in 2019, flagging a desire to keep the properties separate and maintain the different styles of the two houses. The spirit is less obvious here and the fruit is sweeter and more open. Noval’s VPs are darker, richer and brooding. Lifted aromatics of sweet raspberry, blueberry, dark cherry, morello cherry, bitter chocolate and sarsaparilla. Full bodied and luscious. Very fruit driven, with lovely mineral and velvet tannins and savoury/earthy notes to offset the sweetness. Very open considering how young this Vintage Port is. Absolutely gorgeous.
