Something my dad used to tell me often, and advice I did not heed until middle age, was to ‘know thyself’. Happily, absorbing wisdom came much sooner for John Hughes, who was called Riesling Freak by his friends as he always brought around a bottle of Riesling or two. Knowing himself from a young age, he hasn’t deviated an inch from his chosen path of understanding, exploring and appreciating the unparalleled diversity of Riesling.
Don’t cloud the narrative
John started the business in 2009, and at a recent tasting I asked him if he ever got bored, or was there a side project in the offing, or if his wife Belinda was secretly working with other varietals? “No, I have never given it a thought. Belinda has mentioned it once or twice, but I didn’t want to cloud the narrative. When you make red wine and most whites, you are able to craft them, manipulate the process and to hide your mistakes. With Riesling, there’s nowhere to hide. The wine is made so simply, so you either get it right or you don’t”. But what of the sweeter styles, there’s process involved? “There is. Belinda won’t touch the No.5 (off-dry, similar to a German Kabinett), because you have to know when to stop the ferment. Once you’ve done this, there’s no going back. It’s too late. So there is a process, but that’s about it. One decision and getting it right isn’t easy, but it is crucial”.
The range
The Rieslingfreak range encompasses both dry and sweet styles and the unique fortified, No.7. Unique is one of the most misused words in the world of wine but in this case it is most certainly true. I know of no other wine like it and it should not be missed.
The Clare Valley No.3, Eden Valley No.4 and Polish Hill No.2 are clearly of their region and it is certainly to your advantage to drink them together as they are quite different, as they should be. Rieslingfreak’s emblematic wine is the No.10 Zenit, a blend of Clare and Eden Valley, made only in the best vintages and for me, the most complete wine in the range. Sweeter styles of Riesling are inching their way into popularity, but their versatility is still unresolved for most wine drinkers.
For Kabinett lovers, the tension of dryness and sweetness, try the No.8 Polish Hill River Schatzkammer. The No.5 Clare Valley off dry is similar to a feinherb in style, with only 11-15g/l of sugar and lighter than the No.8. There is even a Sekt, the No.9, a sparkling wine made from Riesling. Bracing and fresh, utterly delicious in its youth, yet with enormous ageing potential.
The depth and versatility of Riesling
Most wines are released only four months or so after vintage. Fermented and aged in stainless steel on lees, ensuring freshness and purity of fruit. Grapes are sourced from trusted growers and friends, including John’s parents’ vineyard in the Clare Valley. Rieslingfreak is the only Riesling producer in Australia where a wine lover is able to explore the variety’s depth and versatility. The winemaking methods enhance and highlight the differences between the Clare and Eden Valleys and, in the case of the regional blend No.10, a case in point of the validity of blends over single vineyards. The estate’s DNA runs the course of the range. Intense, transparent fruit profiles, sonorous depth, spherical shape and chiseled, precise structures. In terms of value, there are none better. Every bottle from Rieslingfreak is salivating, worthy of relish and shamefully great value.
The 2022 Vintage Release
This is clearly a great vintage, for me the greatest release so far, testifying not only to the strength of the vintage but the growing qualities of the producer. John said that he believed 2017 was the best vintage he has ever worked, 2022 is a very close second. When asked by other wine growers what they should do about all that acid, John’s response was “I’m embracing it!” Power, precision, concentration, width across the palate and deep structures. There is certainly a lot of acid, but this is tempered by the fleshy, pulpy fruits. A student of wine would do well to taste as many 2022’s as possible, as the differences between Clare and Eden are beautifully delineated. And the prices are still ridiculously good!
Rieslingfreak No.3 Clare Valley Riesling 2022
From the family’s White Hutt vineyard and surely one of the best value whites in Australia. Slightly musky aromatics, with Middle Eastern spices, potpourri, citrus and stone fruits. Ample; displaying the generosity of the vintage. Round shape, broad, fleshy middle palate and soft integrated acidity. Tonic herbs, lemon oil, preserved lemon, grapefruit and juicy pomelo. Absolutely gorgeous.
Rieslingfreak No.4 Eden Valley Riesling 2022
If you wanted to note the difference between Clare and Eden Valley Rieslings, a tasting of No.3 and No.4 would be highly recommended. The No.4 is absolutely classic Eden – green apple, white peach, lemon, lemon zest and lemon blossom. Slightly different in shape to the Clare Valley, less round or generous, more precise and utterly focused. Mouthwatering and mineral, the region’s famed acidity framing, shaping and driving. Really quite something.
Rieslingfreak No.2 Polish Hill River Riesling 2022
Polish Hill is its own beast, with a great deal more complexity and power. A year or two in bottle helps flesh out the middle palate and integrates the elements. This is really something, tasting tones that are not apparent in the Clare or Eden Valley renditions. Intensely aromatic. Blackcurrant, lime, stone fruit, grapefruit, white flowers, green apple, lemon sherbet and red cherry. Soft and gentle, a very refined palate. There are some pithy textural notes, savoury herbs and minerals. Purring, smoldering, layered flavours and worked in acidity. Stunning wine that will see out at least 20 years and more.
Rieslingfreak No.10 Zenit Riesling 2022
A testament to blending – 59% Clare Valley and 41% Eden Valley, this is Rieslingfreak’s emblematic wine. I like that Clare takes the lead, generous and ample with darker fruits and integrated structure. Eden Valley’s cooler tones provide buoyancy and focus, streamlining the palate and focusing the structure. Aromas of cut grass, lemon and orange blossom, sage and blackcurrant. Pulpy, supple and fleshy. Lovely curves, flecked with thyme, preserved lime, yellow peach and apricot. Pure and silken, there is no rasping acidity, rather it’s tingling, purring and focused power. The most complete wine, and it should be. Absolutely stunning.
Rieslingfreak No.5 Clare Valley Off Dry Riesling 2022
Sweeter styles of Riesling are inching their way onto the market. This is still a bit of a fruit tingle, thanks to the abundance of natural acidity of the 2022 vintage, but gosh it’s yummy! Honeysuckle, jasmine, lemon, white peach and lemon. Terrific tension of sweetness and acidity. Very fine, feinherb like, and salty, with pulpy pomelo. Very long, cruising, becoming drier and more bracing the further along the finish.
Rieslingfreak No.8 Polish Hill River Schatzkammer Riesling 2022
An homage to German Kabinett, although richer, fuller and sweeter than the No.5. The balance is impeccable – the sheer generosity and abundance of 2022 shining through. Spring jasmine, lime, mandarin, grapefruit and passionfruit. Super vibrant, rich, and packed with energy. The fruit tingle element is utterly bracing, cooling, yet the fruit is ample and succulent. Very long finish, silky and holds to the palate. Benchmark.
Rieslingfreak No.7 NV Clare Valley Fortified Riesling 375ml (available to order – ask us)
Unique I think, we are certainly not aware of a comparable wine. Absorbing aromatics of caramel, nougat, bourbon, preserved citrus and cherry. Fortified with high quality brandy spirit and aged for three years in cask. Complex and even though it’s unique, it tastes and feels classic, historic, a wine style that’s always been there. The brandy and wood flavours come through strongly, with coconut, orange rind, blood orange, custard and brioche. We tasted this served with coconut cake, matching perfectly.
