With its long and often tragic history, South Africa has developed a unique vinous character, markedly different from anywhere else in the ‘New World’ or in Europe. Grapes arrived with the first Dutch settlers, but much needed expertise would only arrive in the colony in 1688 with the persecuted French Huguenots. As a reference, the colony of New South Wales would be founded a full 100 years later in 1788.
Geologically ancient soils, the oldest in the world for wine growing, mostly sandstone, shale and granite. Rainfall patterns are unbelievably complex, due to the diversity of topography and the proximity of the Atlantic Ocean. Usually falling over winter, rain is heavier by the coast and in areas of elevation, but does not always reach the inland regions. Proximity to the ocean offers favourable influences, bringing cold winds to the sun baked vineyards of the interior, but again the pattern of rain is erratic and inconsistent.
South Africa is currently in the grip of a crippling drought, however many vineyards have been dry grown since their establishment, and limited access to irrigation has always been a feature of South African farming. This needs to be seen in a broader context, as the vineyards are naturally low yielding and have, alongside their farmers, adapted to the harsh conditions.
Such adaptation is represented in the choice and success of varietals. The diversity of soils and chaotic influences of wind, rain, temperature and geology lead to an incredible array of wines. With growing conditions changing dramatically over short distances, South African wine regions boast multiple styles, made up of multiple varietals. Taking this into account, the definitive South African wines, from their greatest producers, are blends – red and white. Blends of varietals and vineyards within a region, a showcase of accidental history.
In the glass you can taste the evidence of choices made by a multitude of people, from different backgrounds at different times, for different needs, different reasons and different tastes. And herein lies the fundamental break and pivot point away from the European ideal of site expression. In South Africa, the expression of history, culture and diversity is a more important consideration than the inflexible convention of government endorsed site expression. And there is nothing like it, anywhere else on earth.
New arrivals from South Africa:
Olifantsberg Old Vine Chenin Blanc 2019
From vines with an average age of 37 years. Fermented in a variety of vessels, from stainless steel to foudres and aged on lees in old, large format French oak. What an absolute ridiculous bargain this wine is. Cool and breezy with green apple, lemon, lime zest, pear and honeysuckle. Clean and precise, loads of pure fruit, wood spice, subtle oak spice and tropical notes. Fluffy lanolin texture, cut with vibrant acidity and a squeeze of phenolics. Wonderful.
Olifantsberg Lark Chenin Blanc 2019
Layered and detailed, mouth filling, yet light on its feet. Chenin Blanc can be many things and most winemakers opt for one style or another, but the Lark from Olifantsberg conjures up a multifaceted expression. Deeper and darker fruited aromatics than the old vine chenin, with white peach, apricot, nectarine, lime, dried herbs and whiffs of oak spice. On sipping, there is a rush of flavour, covering all corners of the mouth. Vital and creamy, the subtle wood burrs chenin’s structural angles. Gripping and focused, holding the line of ages. Complete wine, and an absolute drop dead bargain.
Whole berry fermented in open top fermenters and aged for 10 months in small and large format French oak. Olifantsberg’s reds are supple and elegant, a reflection of the cold and windy nature of the region, which endures snow in winter. Cherry, cranberry, plum, raspberry and strawberry. Expansive palate with great width with a persistent, if gentle grip. Earthy, ferrous notes and Middle Eastern spices kick in on the back end of the palate. Beautiful wine, so long and tender and a reminder that there are many ways to interpret a varietal.
Olifantsberg Grenache Blanc 2019
Grenache Blanc, like Chenin Blanc, is a variety open to interpretation. Olifantsberg’s wines are elegant, controlled and poised. Fruit profiles in wines of both colours are plump and tender, nothing too overt. Stone fruits, honeysuckle, Tarragon, Sage and flint aromas. Beautiful caressing mouthfeel. Stone fruits and citrus, a gentle pithiness and green olive squeeze to close. Gourmand, versatile at table and a great wine to serve blind.
Olifantsberg Grenache Noir 2019
Wine lovers familiar with ethereal and Pinot Noir-like styles of Grenache will love this. Beautiful aromas of cherry, strawberry, raspberry, dried herbs and Asian spices. Deep, plush and soft. There’s abundant flavour, but that Olifantsberg gentleness. Flavours of red and briary fruits, and spice that rides along the slick and lacy tannins.
The emblematic white wine of Olifantsberg, an homage to the whites of southern Rhone. A blend of Roussanne, Grenache Blanc and Chenin Blanc, this is the fullest, but by no means full bodied white in the range. The most expressive too, with white peach, nectarine, apricot, spring jasmine and signature dried herbs. Aged in mostly used 500L barrels and for 10 months on lees. Mouth filling, slightly textural and creamy. Fruits are as if freshly picked from the tree; plump, juicy, soft and cut through with bright acidity. A touch of phenolics on the finish and saline twist. Utterly gorgeous, captivating and I would prefer this to just about any Rhone equivalents. Yet another salivating bargain.
If ever you had any doubts about the potential of Pinotage, the 2020 Beeslaar will put paid to them. From a 2.5 ha vineyard, dry grown, shale soils and old bush vines. Open top fermentation, followed by 20 months in French oak barriques. Very simple stuff, but the wine is far from simple. Intense aromas of blackberry, blood plum, mulberry and cassis. Rich and full bodied, remarkably elegant – svelte even, considering the size and power on offer. A compote of red and black fruits, baking spices, flowers, dark chocolate and Serrano. Tannins begin firm, yet are long and precise, holding the fruit on a perfectly level palate. Incredible wine.
