Nebbiolo it seems is the new Holy Grail of Australian wine. Simon Grant’s vision for Traviarti has always been about crafting beautiful Nebbiolo, and so he does; Australia’s best alongside Pipan Steel. But never mind all this. The Holy Grail for Australian wine’s isn’t about varietals, regions or styles, but tannins, textural complexity and savouriness.
Traviati’s latest release includes the Rosso and Chardonnay, both from 2022. The wines are entirely different from the wonderfully sleek and flavoursome 2021’s and I’m not certain if this is the influence of vintage and/or a further refinement of style. I thought 2021 would be a pretty hard act to follow, but I cannot remember being so excited about a pair of relatively inexpensive Australian wines.
The Rosso is predominantly Nebbiolo with some Barbera adding weight, fruit density and shape. No doubt about it, this is a savoury wine. Brooding and deep, yet without undue weight or fruit sweetness. Mineral and tannic, you can taste the tannins as much as feel their, chalky velvet squeeze. Gourmand, begging for food and with an assertive grip that will get you lip smacking for Bistecca ala Fiorentina.
We have enjoyed many excellent Australian Chardonnays but the Traviarti 2022 is the best release yet and an absolute game changer for the variety in Australia. Once again savoury, with a slick lanolin glide that evolves into the flavour and feel of Sicilian olive. Perfectly balanced and weighted, with delicious mid palate stuffing and subtle mineral grip. Never before have I tasted an Australian Chardonnay so confident, finessed and elegant. Drunk over three nights, it never wavered, lost its shape or faded of fruit. If an angel came down from heaven in need of libation, then this is the bottle I would reach for.
Like the Chardonnay, utterly different to the wonderful 2021. Richer, deeper and more tannic, Traviarti has taken a step to another level. Stewed red fruits of plum, rhubarb, strawberry and raspberry, with tobacco, lavender and dark chocolate. Juicy and succulent upon entry, with the tightening chalky/velvet grip of Nebbiolo tannins. I love these tannins, finally an Australian producer not afraid of texture and grip. Pure bistro, pure seriousness. This is too good for pizza, but it’s plenty versatile, the Euopean tannins custom built for food. There is loads of red and black fruit to be sure, but it’s the wine’s savouriness that sets it apart. What a wine, what a bargain.
